[Guatemala] Acatenango Gesha, Sweet Maria's lot

2015新產季批次:[半磅裝 Geisha] #02155 Guatemala, Acatenango, Washed Gesha, Source by Sweet Maria's

Guatemala Acatenango Gesha 這支可以讓 Sweet Maria's 長期不透露詳細資料的招牌豆實在是有點神秘,價格與風味都相當適合做為 Gesha的入門款。新產季目前只進口了六磅的生豆樣本!

SM Note: 濃花香/ 劍葉橙/ 阿薩姆/ 蜜糖甜/ 果汁般口感/ 94

以下文章譯自 Sweet Maria's官方的介紹與杯測記錄,由翁宗睿同學翻譯,羅士庭同學潤稿。

瓜地馬拉 阿卡特南果 藝妓(瑰夏)豆

Farm Description 農場描述

 We've been waiting with much anticipation for our 2nd container of Guatemalan coffee, as not only did it hold our first Huehuetenango coffees of the year, but it was also transporting the prized lot of Gesha from the Acatenango region. We've bought this Gesha the past few years, and once again we're absolutely thrilled with the landed coffee. Floral scents, tropical fruit, intense sweentess: This cup is Gesha all the way.
 我們懷著滿心期待,迎接第二箱來自瓜地馬拉的咖啡生豆貨櫃,裡頭裝有本年度第一批運至本公司的薇薇特南果生豆,以及來自阿卡特南果產區珍貴的嬌客珍品──藝妓生豆。幾年來,這支藝妓生豆都是本公司的常備豆;而又一次地,無與倫比的藝妓讓我們興奮戰慄。花香、熱帶水果、強烈甜味:這是杯地地道道的藝伎沒錯!
 
 If you don't know the story of the Gesha cultivar, it is an old coffee type from Ethiopia that was brought to an experimental coffee garden in Costa Rica years ago as a specimen sample. It was distributed to a few farms for testing on small plots, but not much was thought of it until one of these, Esmeralda in Panama, separated it from the other cultivars and entered it in the national competition. It was so outrageously different, with fruited and floral character like a Yirga Cheffe coffee from half a world away. Now that the word is out, other small farms that received some of the seed have tried to separate their Gesha coffee as well, as is the case here. The results are always a bit different: the cultivar "expresses" itself differently in terms of cup flavors at each location, influenced by weather, soil, altitude and the like.
 倘若你沒聽過藝妓豆的故事,且讓我細說從頭。藝妓是一支古優品系,好久以前當藝妓還是試驗樣本時*(註1),它從衣索匹亞送到哥斯大黎加的一處實驗園裡試種*(註2)。接著它給分播到若干莊園以測試小規模種植的成效*(註3)。籍籍無名的藝妓剛開始並沒引起太大注意,直到其中一所莊園──巴拿馬的翡翠莊園──自萬綠叢中拔擢了藝妓,送往巴拿馬本國的咖啡年度競賽與其他生豆相互較勁*(註4)。藝妓有著悍然不同的風味,它獨特的果香和花香,令人想起遠在半個地球外的耶加雪菲。消息走漏後,其他幾個曾一同收到藝妓種子的莊園,也開始想辦法從混雜的咖啡樹叢裡分離出藝妓品系,本支生豆正是這樣來的。但分離出的成果每次都有點差異,而且不同地點種出來的藝妓,在杯測風味裡「表現」自己的方式,會受氣候、土壤、海拔之類的影響而有所不同。
 
 
 And with this coffee from the region of Acatenango, we have a Gesha cup that expresses much of that floral intensity that's become synonymous with the "Gesha" name. Harvest was quite productive this year as the owner of the farm has dedicated more of his farm to this varietal, which after putting it to the cup test we've decided is a very good thing.
 我們的杯測結果顯示,這支來自阿卡特南果產區的豆子表現出藝妓豆聞名於世的高強度花香。由於莊園主人決定擘劃更多農地,專門種植藝妓豆,今年的產量豐碩。杯測結果出爐後,我們認為這支豆子真的很不錯!
 
 This coffee is part of our Farm Gate pricing program.
 這隻豆子屬於我們「農場大門」計劃的一環。
 

註1:1931 年,聯合國糧農組織為了改善中南美咖啡的體弱多病及基因狹窄特性,會同英國公使一同於耶加雪菲的藝妓山採集了許多珍貴的抗病咖啡種源。
註2:1953 年,藝妓被送至哥斯大黎加知名的「熱帶農業研究與高等教育中心」CATIE。
註3:1963 年,巴拿馬咖啡農唐・巴契 Don Pachi 向哥斯大黎加 CATIE 購買抗病藝妓品種,並贈與巴拿馬農友。
註4:2004 年開始,藝妓豆於杯測賽中年年屢獲冠亞軍,戰功彪炳,馳騁於巴拿馬最佳咖啡杯測賽(Best of Panama,BOP)與美國精品咖啡協會烘焙者學會杯測賽/年度最佳咖啡杯測賽(Coffee Of The Year,Coty)。

 

Cupping Notes 杯測風味調性紀錄

 This year's Gesha lot has such a floral sweetness to it - perfume-like, sweet, complex, and 'fresh' - sort of like Summer! This set of attributes are uniquely 'Gesha', and we are as bowled over by this years' lot as any.
 今年這批藝妓豆,帶花香的甜味非常美妙,如香水般甜美而複雜的「清新感」,帶給人一種好像......夏天的感覺!這些專屬於藝妓豆的特質,讓人深深為之折服。
 
 The dry fragrance is exceptionally floral, with strong notes of honeysuckle and jasmine flowers, thus living up to the expectations. It's a potent ground coffee with lots of herb/floral tea complexity, as well as smells of sweet citrus spritz and stone fruits. The wet aromatics are even 'bigger' if you can imagine, rivaling the experience of putting your nose directly into the bud of orange blossoms - seriously, almost as strong a retronasal reaction occurs! This heightened floral smell is backed by a solid wildflower honey sweetness, rose water, and chamomile tea leaf.
 乾香部分有格外強烈的花香,帶忍冬花 (圖一)和茉莉花的風味,不愧眾人期待。乾粉味道強勁,帶有花草茶的複雜風味,以及甜柑橘與核果的芳香。至於濕香,簡直可媲美把鼻子直接湊上柑橘花苞裡用力吸口氣──不如試著這麼想像一下吧──濕香如此突出,強烈得好像發生了「鼻後嗅覺反應」*(註5)!這濃厚的花香還佐以野花蜜充分的甜味,以及玫瑰水和洋甘菊茶的風味。


圖一
 
註5:一種好像可以用舌頭「品嘗到」嗅覺氣味的感覺。
 

 Like most coffees, when hot the full complexity of this coffee's cup profile is a bit difficult to sense. But as soon as the temp begins to dip, you're greeted with the same level of intensity in floral notes and sweetness as the aromatic profile. City/City+ roasts have a nice star jasmine flavor to them with kaffir lime, herbal tea, and honey. It's 'zesty' too, with notes of pomello, Meyer lemon, and mandarin orange citrus flavors. Acidity is high, riding the line between citric and malic, and remains well integrated into the already complex profile. Much, much more is revealed in the cooling cup - tropical fruit flavors, punchy top notes, and various herbal and black tea flavors. This Gesha has surprisingly juicy body, and finishes beautifully with notes of Assam tea and even a light dusting of cocoa powder - articulate and clean. With our sample roasts we found City+ to be about the optimal roast level for complexity and sweetness, but even our Full City retained much of the "Gesha" profile.
 正如多數咖啡,在熱的時候飲用不太容易完全感受這款咖啡的複雜程度,不過一旦溫度開始降低,就能嚐到和聞香時一樣強烈的花香和甜香。烘焙到城市型至城市型略深的程度,能彰顯出星茉莉花(絡石)、泰國青檸(箭葉橙)、香草茶、蜂蜜等風味,它還帶著爽口的柚子、中國檸檬(梅爾檸檬)及橘子的柑橘調性。酸味頗強,結合了檸檬和蘋果的酸調,與複雜的整體風味相互融合的很好。溫度越降,風味更加明顯 — 熱帶水果強勁的前味,及各型各色的香草與紅茶風味。這支藝妓豆的稠度,多汁到驚人的程度,優雅的餘韻帶有阿薩姆紅茶風味,甚至帶點可可粉的細末感 — 粒粒分明、清澈無比。經烘焙測試,我們認為最適合表現複雜度和甜味的烘焙程度,約落在城市型略深,不過即使是滿城型烘焙也能保留不少藝妓的特點。
 

Score 評分

93
 

 

Lot Size 批次份量

40 x 46 KG Bags
 

Roast Recommendations 建議烘焙程度

City to City+ have the strongest floral character, but it also comes through in the more developed Full City and beyond range.
烘焙到城市型至略深,最能表現出花香特性,不過花香仍會出現在更深的滿城型以上烘焙程度。

Processing 處理法

Wet Process 濕式處理法
 

Varietal 品種

Gesha 藝妓(瑰夏)豆
 

Grade & Appearance 等級 & 外觀

SHB EP; .2 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen - large bean size means some pulper knicking during processing
極硬豆(Strictly Hard Bean),採用歐式手選法(European Preparation);每 300 克生豆有 2 個缺陷扣分單位,粒徑介於 17 至 18 目 —— 大粒徑可能導致部分豆子於脫除果肉時出現裂痕。

註:
歐式手選法(EP)容許每 300 克生豆中出現最高至 8 個瑕疵單位;
美式手選法(AP)最高至 23 個瑕疵單位。

 

Packaging

Shipped to us in GrainPro
抵達時以 GrainPro 超密封種子袋包裝

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